The Mercato

The market goes for blocks along two streets parallel to the beach and up several perpendicular between the two.

At first glance it was a mass confusion of commerce with throngs of people pawing through merchandise while sellers dealt with them all as they were able. Yet as I kept strolling I noticed an order to the shops and a rhythm with the shoppers. I would say the shops could be divided into three categories: Really really cheap stuff; Nice stuff; Knockoffs of nice stuff.

The Really really cheap stuff stalls were usually manned by Asians and sold stuff like bras in piles on tables and shirts for 3 Euro or shoes for 10 Euro. The people buying at these shops would stand close to the racks or hunched over the tables quickly looking for the needful, usually dragging along an IKEA-style rolling basket.

The Nice stuff stalls were nicely arrayed and had prominent signage about the wares. "Made in Italy". "Real Leather". "Cashmere". "Silk". "Merino Wool".  I'm translating, but you get the picture. The products looked good and felt good. The leather smelled good. For food items like Italian meats, cheeses, pasta, spices, sauces the packaging clearly marked the location of origin, the ingredients, and came in 'specialty shop' sizes suitable for traveling. The sellers were attentive but not too -- helpful and knowledgeable. Usually Italian, with decent command of French and English. They were ready to take a credit card, and used nice packaging -- even had gift bags and boxes.

The Knockoffs of nice stuff shops were manned by Asians or Eastern Europeans, and had items that were close but no cigar. The novelty noodles came in garish colors in giant cellophane bags. The purses were fabric with a poly coating, or advertised as 'vegetable leather' (is that like a fruit rollup?). The scarves were scratchy. The sellers in these stalls stood really close to you while they did their best to find something that pleased.